Last Day on the Danube River Cruise

Saint Francis of Assisi Church and Farewell Dinner

 Saint Francis of Assisi Church overlooks the Danube River, next to the beginning of the Reichsbrücke (Empire Bridge), where the river boats dock in Vienna. The church is easily visible from ships docked on the Danube. I had seen this very interesting-looking church coming and going into the city of Vienna. On the day before we left Vienna to go back to Paris, I had a chance to go and see the church close-up.  

Saint Francis of Assisi Church was consecrated in 1898, in celebration of the Golden Crown Jubilee of Emperor Franz Joseph I of Austria (1848-1916). It was on the occasion of the 50th anniversary of his ascent to the Austro-Hungarian throne  A competition was held to select the design and was won by architect Victor Luntz. The red brick building, with its conical towers, resembles a fairytale castle more than it does a basilica. 

Saint Francis of Assisi is located in the southeastern part of Mexikoplatz (Mexico Square), a square named in 1956 to honor the support Mexico  gave to Austria in 1938, when it was the only country to protest the Anschluss (annexation) of Austria by Nazi Germany. The church is now home to the Vienna English Speaking Catholic Community (VESCC) who have held weekly masses at the church since moving there in 2009.

A side view of the church

One side entry to the church

The façade of the church facing the Mexicoplatz 

A close-up of the lower half of the façade

A close-up of the upper half of the façade

Opposite side entrance

Opposite side view of church

Close-up of the conical clock tower

The nave (aisle)  and apse (altar area) of the church

The main bell tower is the highest feature of the church, and it is as wide as the main nave. The base of the bell tower begins above the high arch.

A closer view of the apse  

The altar with an impressive baldachin above it (a baldachin is a canopy over an altar or throne. Here, it is a permanent architectural feature over the high altar.)

A side altar dedicated to the Blessed Virgin is to the right of the main altar.

Closer view of side altar with the Blessed Virgin and Baby Jesus

Regina Pacis = Queen of Peace

A Pieta

Crucifix

A saint with votive candles

The organ

A confessional

PAX INTRANTIBUS ET EXEUNTIBUS
“Peace to those who enter here and to those who depart”

Painting by Italian artist Ettore Gualdini, “The Annunciation”

Painting by Italian artist Ettore Gualdini, “Blessed Isabel Canori Mora”

The interior of the church is less ornate than you might expect, judging by the grand exterior. However, there are two outstanding and unique features within the church: one side altar, which has an intricate fretwork baldachin high above an altar dedicated to the Madonna, and the Elisabeth Chapel, which has gilt surfaces everywhere, marble walls, ornate designs, and shimmering mosaics. 

A side altar to the left of the main altar dedicated to Our Lady of Peñafrancia 

The altar displays an image of Our Lady of Peñafrancia, revered in Salamanca, Spain, since the 16th century. A primitive image of Our Lady of Peñafrancia was discovered in the hills of Spain, and a number of miracles were attributed to the image of the Virgin Mary. It was taken to the Philippines by missionaries, and Naga City in the Philippines became one of the biggest Marian pilgrimage sites in the world. 

A replica of the image was brought to Saint Francis of Assisi Church, where the image could be displayed and devotions held. Those devoted to Our Lady of Peñafrancia celebrate her feast in September with a procession and Mass.

A close-up of the baldachin

The side altar with the fretwork baldachin and angels atop pillars. It is located under a rose window, which allows light to stream in and shine on the baldachin. The total effect of this work of art was stunning.

The Elizabeth Chapel

In 1898, the Italian anarchist Luigi Lucheni assassinated the wife of Emperor Franz Joseph I, Empress Elisabeth of Austria. (Lucheni sought to kill a member of what he felt was an elite and oppressive upper class, and he did not care which member of it he killed.) To commemorate her, the Elisabethkapelle (Elizabeth Chapel) was built adjacent to the side altar of Our Lady of Peñafrancia.

The Elizabeth Chapel is under its own dome, giving it a lofty feeling, and has a much different appearance from the rest of the church. It was financed through donations from the Red Cross, as Empress Elisabeth was the first Protector of the Red Cross. Because of this largesse, the octagonal chapel was decorated with the more expensive gold mosaics rather than frescoes, and the walls were covered in marble rather than stucco. It has gilt surfaces everywhere, marble walls, ornate designs, and mosaics in a colorful and elaborate Byzantine style. There is a large mosaic of Saint Elizabeth of Hungary above the arch over the altar. She was a greatly venerated Catholic saint who was an early member of the Third Order of Saint Francis and who was honored as its patroness.  There is probably no inch of space left unadorned, putting it in great contrast to the church proper. I wasn’t able to enter the chapel on the day I was there but viewed it through locked gates. I found a beautiful photo of the chapel by Bwag/Commons, courtesy of Wikimedia Commons.

Our boat, the MS Beethoven, “double-parked” at the dock in Vienna on our last day of the cruise.

Our last dinner on board was a festive occasion, after which we said “good-bye” to the crew and to our new-found friends. Our servers, most of whom spoke little English, had given us impeccable lunch and dinner service every day. I don’t know how they served so many people (around 145) so quickly and efficiently.

Brits Monica and Helen, and Scots Irene and Campbell 

Monica, Becky, Irene, Campbell, Helen and Robert on our last dinner on board ship

Cruising down the Danube with its amazing vistas and great sightseeing opportunities was a wonderful experience. It was also relaxing not to have to worry about the responsibilities of everyday life--on a cruise all you really have to do is show up. It was our first cruise, and it was an eventful one that I’ll always remember fondly.